Copyright     FAQ     Advertisers
Sponsor
Petite Purls
OWool
No Capes
» photos: Jen Johnson » model: Jeffrey

No Capes!

By Jen Johnson
Intermediate

My 5-year-old son firmly believes he is a superhero; he even went through a stage where he would only answer to “Super Jeffrey.” He got a superhero cape for Christmas that he loves, but it’s not exactly practical for wear everywhere. Besides, I’m from the Edna Mode school of superhero wear: “No capes!” So I decided to design him a t-shirt that’s perfect for spring and summer, where he can proclaim to the world at large how super he is.


Size

2 [4, 6, 8, 10]
Shown in size 6

Finished Measurements

Chest: 22 [24, 26, 28, 30] inches
Length: 13 [14½, 16, 17, 18] inches

Materials

Yarn Cloud Bamboo Soft Spell [100% bamboo; 180 yards/160 meters per 3.5 ounce/100 gram ball];

#16 Blue (MC); 2 [3, 3, 3, 4] balls
#26 Golden Brown (CC); 1 [1, 1, 1, 1] ball

Recommended needle sizes

US #8/5 mm circular needle (choose length according to chest circumference) or size needed to obtain gauge
US #8/5 mm DPNs (if desired for sleeves)
US #7/4.5mm circular needles (choose length according to chest circumference) or one size smaller than needles used for gauge
US #7/4.5mm DPNs (if desired for sleeves)

Notions

Waste yarn
Stitch markers
Tapestry/yarn needle

Gauge

20 sts and 29 rows = 4 inches in St st using larger needles

Pattern Notes

This t-shirt is worked seamlessly from the top down with set-in sleeves. The back is knit first from an invisible cast on, using short rows to give the shoulder a natural slope, down to the end of the armholes. The front begins from the invisible cast on and the neck is shaped as the front is knit to the same level as the back. Then the front and back are joined in the round with stitches cast on under the arms and knit to the bottom, which is hemmed. Sleeve stitches are picked up around the armhole, with the sleeve cap shaped by short rows, and the sleeve is knit in the round to the end, also hemmed. Lastly, stitches are picked up around the neck to finish off the ribbed collar.

There are several methods to do an invisible (or provisional) cast on, such as the looped cast on and the crochet/chained cast on. You can use whichever method you’re most comfortable with, but you will need to be able to free stitches on either end and leave the stitches in the middle secured. I used the open cast on as described here (page down to Invisible/Provisional cast on).

No Capes

Skills Required

Invisible cast on, working in the round, knitting on circular needles, magic loop or knitting on DPNs, short rows, stranded colorwork (or duplicate stitch), picking up stitches, hemming


INSTRUCTIONS

Back

With larger circular needles and MC, cast on 45 [48, 51, 54, 57] sts with an invisible cast on.

Row 1 (RS): Knit across.

Row 2: Purl across.

Row 3: (K15 [16, 17, 18, 19], Pm) twice, knit to end. The first marker placed is Marker A, the second is Marker B.

Row 4: Purl to 5 sts past Marker A (second marker), move yarn to back, slip next st Pwise, move yarn to front, return slipped st to left needle, turn.

Row 5: Knit across to 5 sts past Marker B, move yarn to front, slip next st Pwise, move yarn to back, return slipped st to left needle, turn.

Repeat Rows 4 and 5, purling or knitting an additional 5 sts past the respective marker each row 1 [2, 2, 2, 2] more times. As you reach each wrapped stitch, slide the wrapped yarn onto the left needle and purl it together or knit it together through the back loops with the stitch around which it had been wrapped.

Row 6: Purl across, removing markers as you come to them.
Work in St st for 4¾ [5, 5¼, 5½, 6] inches (measured on the edge, not the middle), ending with a purl row. If desired, keep count of rows knit to match armhole shaping on the front.

Row 7 (Increase row – Armhole Shaping): K2, M1R, knit across to last 2 sts, M1L, k2: 47 [50, 53, 56, 59] sts.

Row 8: Purl across.

Repeat Rows 7 and 8, 2 [3, 4, 5, 6] more times: 51 [56, 61, 66, 71] sts. Place the back sts on waste yarn.

No Capes

Front

Hold the work with the RS facing you and the cast on sts at the top. Place rightmost (right shoulder) 10 [11, 12, 12, 12] sts and leftmost (left shoulder) 10 [11, 12, 12, 12] sts on the circular needle, leaving the center 25 [26, 27, 30, 33] sts on the waste yarn.

Row 1: With one ball of MC, knit across the right shoulder sts; with a second ball of yarn, knit across the left shoulder sts. Some invisible cast ons result in twisted sts, K tbl as needed to untwist.

Row 2: Purl across both shoulders.

Row 3: On right shoulder, knit across to last 2 sts, M1L, k2; on left shoulder, k2, M1R, knit to end: 11 [12, 13, 13, 13] sts on each shoulder.

Row 4: Purl across both shoulders.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4, 7 [8, 8, 9, 10] more times: 36 [40, 42, 44, 46] sts total (half on each shoulder). Break yarn on left shoulder.

Next Row: Knit across right shoulder, cast on 9 [8, 9, 10, 11] sts, knit across left shoulder, joining front: 45 [48, 51, 54, 57] sts.

Next Row: Purl across.

Knit 0 [2, 4, 4, 6] rows of St st, ending with a purl row.

No Capes

Colorwork On Front

This uses the included colorwork chart for the word “Super.” The instructions call for using stranded colorwork, but if desired, you can knit the next rows with the MC and duplicate stitch the colorwork afterwards with CC, following the chart. When knitting the chart, be sure to read it from bottom to top, and from right to left on knit (odd) rows and left to right on purl (even rows.

Row 1 (and all RS rows): K5 [6, 8, 9, 11] with MC, work corresponding row from chart in knit, K4 [6, 7, 9, 10] with MC.

Row 2 (and all WS rows): P4 [6, 7, 9, 10] with MC, work corresponding row from chart in purl, P5 [6, 8, 9, 11] with MC.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the 17 rows of the chart are complete.

Next Row: Purl across.

At the same time, when the front measures 4¾ [5, 5¼, 5½, 6] inches (measured on the edge, not the middle), or you have reached the same number of rows knit on the back before the armhole shaping, begin armhole shaping on the front. Be sure to include the added sts before and after working the chart. (If you complete the chart before reaching the needed length/number of rows, continue to work in St st with MC to the armhole increases, ending with a purl row.)

Row 7: K2, M1R, knit across to last 2 sts, M1L, k2: 47 [50, 53, 56, 59] sts.

Row 8: Purl across.

Repeat Rows 7 and 8, 2 [3, 4, 5, 6] more times: 51 (56, 61, 66, 71) sts.

No Capes

Body

With RS facing out, place the back sts on the same needle as the front sts, positioning them so that they will be worked after the front sts; you will be joining to knit in the round. Place a marker before the first front st to mark the beginning of the round.

Round 1: Knit across the front sts, cast on 4 sts, knit across the back sts, cast on 4 sts: 110 [120, 130, 140, 150] sts.

Round 2: Knit around.

Repeat Round 2 until the shirt measures 12¼ [13¾, 15¼, 16¼, 17¼] inches, or to ¾ inch less than desired length.

Shift to CC and continue knitting St st in the round for ¾ inch.

Next Round: Purl around.

Switch to smaller needles, and work ¾ inch in St st. Bind off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Sleeves

Starting at the middle of the underarm, with larger needles and MC, pick up and knit 45 [48, 54, 57, 60] sts around the armhole—pick up a st in each of the 4 cast-on underarm sts (2 at the beginning, and 2 at the end), and the rest evenly spaced around the armhole. Place Marker A after st 16 [17, 19, 20, 21] and Marker B after st 29 [31, 35, 37, 39].

At this point, the sleeve cap will be shaped with short rows knit back and forth.

Row 1: Knit to one st past Marker B, move yarn to front, slip next st Pwise, move yarn to back, return slipped st to left needle, turn.

Row 2: Purl to one st past Marker A, move yarn to back, slip next st Pwise, move yarn to front, return slipped st to left needle, turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2, knitting or purling 1 additional st past the respective marker (i.e., working up to and including the previously wrapped st) until every st has been worked except the 4 sts picked up from the underarm sts. You do not need to pick up and work the wraps on these sts, as the wraps will blend into the sleeve seam, but if desired work them as above on the back. Work the final knit row across the last 2 underarm sts, removing Markers A and B, to the middle of the underarm.

Place a marker at the middle of the 4 underarm sts to mark the beginning of the round. Continue knitting the sleeve in the round for ½ [¾, 1, 1¼, 1½] inches, measured from the underarm, or to ¾ inch less than desired length.

Shift to CC and continue knitting St st in the round for ¾ inch.

Next Round: Purl around.

Switch to smaller needles, and work ¾ inch in St st. Bind off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Collar

Place the back neck sts on the smaller needles and remove the waste yarn. Pick up an additional 43 [46, 47, 52, 57] sts around the neck as follows: 17 [19, 19, 21, 23] sts along the left side, 9 [8, 9, 10, 11] sts from the center neck cast-on sts, and 17 [19, 19, 21, 23] sts along the right side: 68 [72, 74, 82, 90] sts.

Round 1: With CC, knit around.

Round 2: *K1, P1, repeat from * around.

Repeat Round 2 for ½ inch. Bind off loosely (I prefer Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-off)

FINISHING

Fold the hem at the bottom of the shirt to the inside, with the row of purl sts marking the fold line. Using the tails left from the bind off, seam the hem bottom to the inside of the shirt. Repeat on both sleeves. Weave in all ends. Block the shirt, ensuring the stranded colorwork lays flat.

No Capes


(click for larger)

 

No Capes

Chart

 

 

Back top topNext
Jen

Like a magpie, Jen is easily distracted…by pretty yarn. When she couldn’t find the patterns she wanted to knit for her son and daughter, she started designing them. Jen currently lives near Washington DC with her kids and Navy husband, but they’re frequently on the move.

Pattern & images © 2011 Jen Johnson. Contact