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tweedy

by Jean Chung

Photo
» model: Sarah » photos: Jean Chung
Intermediate

"Back to school" theme dominates the fall-season shopping for most kids. I was oddly inspired by those boring navy-colored school uniforms at clothing stores, and wanted to design something like a uniform vest, with more exciting details.

I was drawn to the subtle color variation in Berroco Ultra Alpaca Tonal and thought it would be beautiful to incorporate this yarn in a colorwork. This vest features a stitch pattern that mimics classic tweed fabric, and snug fitting silhouette that is both stylish and warm for chilly autumn weather.


 


Sizes

2 [4, 6, 8, 10]
Sample shown in size 8

Finished Measurements

Chest: 22 [24, 26, 28, 30] inches Length: 13½ [15, 16½, 17½, 18½] inches

Materials

Cascade 220 [100% Merino wool; 220 yards/200 meters per 3.5 ounce/100 gram skein];      

#7822 Vandyke Brown [MC]; 1 skein for all sizes

Berroco Ultra® Alpaca Tonal [50% Peruvian wool, 50% Superfine Alpaca; 215 yards/198 meters per 3.5 ounce/100 gram skein];

6313 Agua; 1 skein for all sizes

Recommended needle sizes

US #7/4.5 mm straight needles or 32 inch circular needle

Notions

6 buttons [you may want to experiment with various sizes, colors, materials of buttons since these are used only for embellishment]
Yarn needle
Waste yarn for provisional cast-on
Optional: Size F crochet hook

Gauge

With MC, 20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in St st
With MC and CC, 22 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in Tweed pattern

Note: Obtain gauge for the St st first. Using the same size needles, knit the Tweed pattern very loosely so that when knitting the two patterns together for the front of the vest, the row gauge will be consistent and the fabric will not pucker.

Pattern Notes

The vest is worked from the bottom up, knitted flat. The back is worked in Stockinette st and the front is knitted in intarsia style with a Stockinette st section in the middle, bordered by a Tweed section on each side. The wide U-neck style and waist shaping add that special “grown-up” feel to this vest. Six buttons [either metal or fabric-covered] embellish the middle section.

Tweed pattern (worked on an even number of sts)

Row 1 (RS): With CC, * k1, sl1 pwise wyif; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: With CC, * p1, sl1 pwise wyib; repeat from across to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 3: With MC, work as for Row 1. Row 4: With MC, work as for Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.

Reverse Single Crochet * Insert the hook from front to back in the next st to the right, yo, draw the yarn through the st, yo, draw the yarn through the 2 loops on hook; repeat from * around.

Skills Required

Provisional Cast-on, I-cord Bind Off

Back

Back With MC and waste yarn, using provisional cast-on, cast on 56 [60, 66, 70, 74] sts.
Row 1 (WS): P16 [17, 19, 20, 21], pm, p24 [26, 28, 30, 32], pm,  p16 [17, 19, 20, 21]. Work in St st for ½[½, ¾, 1, 1] inch, ending with a WS row.

Waist Shaping

Decrease Row (RS): * K to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sl m, k to next marker, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit across: (2 sts decreased) 54 [58, 64, 68, 72] sts.
Continue in Stockinette st and repeat Decrease Row, every 8th row, 0 [1, 2, 3, 3] more times: 54 [56, 60, 62, 66] sts.
Work even for 1 inch, ending with a WS row.

Increase Row (RS): * K to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, k to marker, sl m, k1, M1L, knit across: (2 sts increased) 56 [58, 62, 64, 68] sts.
Continue in Stockinette st and repeat Increase Row every 6th row, 0 [1, 2, 3, 3] more times: 56 [60, 66, 70, 74] sts.
Work even until Back measures 8¾ [9¾, 11, 11½, 12] inches from cast on edge, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping 

Rows 1 and 2: Bind off 2 [2, 2, 4, 4] sts at the beginning of the row, work across: 52 [56, 62, 62, 66] sts.
Rows 3 and 4:
Bind off 2 sts at the beginning of the row, work across: 48 [52, 58, 58, 62] sts.
Row 5: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1: 46 [50, 54, 54, 56] sts.
Row 6:
Purl across.
Repeat the last two rows 0 [0, 1, 1, 2] more times: 46 [50, 54, 54, 56] sts.
Work even until armholes measure 4½ [5, 5½, 6, 6½], ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): K8 [9, 10, 10, 10], bind off the next 30 [32, 34, 34, 36] sts using I-Cord Bind Off method as foll:
Knit into the next st, and without pulling the loop off the left needle, put the new loop on the left needle [this casts on 1 extra st], repeat two more times to cast on 3 extra sts total. * k2, sl 1 kwise, k1, psso, transfer the 3 sts back to the left needle; repeat from * until 9 [10, 11, 11, 11] sts remain, sl 1 kwise, k2tog, transfer the sts back to the left needle, k2tog, k across: 8 [9, 10, 10, 10] sts each side.
Left Shoulder Next Row (WS): Bind off 4 [5, 5, 5, 5] pwise, p across.
Next Row: K across Bind off all sts pwise.

Right Shoulder

DetailNext Row (WS): With WS facing, attach yarn and p across.
Next Row:
Bind off 4 [5, 5, 5, 5] sts kwise, k across.
Next Row: P across. Bind off all sts kwise

Front
With MC and waste yarn, using provisional cast-on, cast on 16 [18, 20, 22, 24] sts, pm, cast on 26 [28, 28, 30, 30] sts, pm, cast on 16 [18, 20, 22, 24] sts: 58 [64, 68, 74, 78] sts total.
Note: From here, you will work Tweed pattern across each 16 [18, 20, 22, 24] st section and Stockinette st across the center 26 [28, 28, 30, 30] st section. Because this Front will be worked intarsia style, you will need to make small balls or bobbins of the yarns. Be sure to work the Tweed stitch pattern very loosely.
Row 1: With CC, work Row 1 of Tweed pattern across first 16 [18, 20, 22, 24] sts, with MC, p 26 [28, 28, 30, 30], with CC, work Row 1 of Tweed pattern across last 16 [18, 20, 22, 24] sts.
Row 2: Work next row of Tweed pattern to marker, with MC work in Stockinette st to marker, work next row of Tweed pattern across
Maintaining pattern, work even until Front measures ½ [½, ¾, 1, 1] inch from cast on edge, ending with a WS row.
Waist Shaping Decrease Row (RS): Work to marker, sl m, ssk, k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sl m, work to end: (2 sts decreased) 56 [62, 66, 72, 76] sts.
Maintaining pattern, repeat Decrease Row, every 8th row, 0 [1, 2, 3, 3] more times: 56 [60, 62, 66, 70] sts.
Work even for 1 inch, ending with a WS row.
Increase Row (RS): Work to marker, sl m, k1, M1R, k to 1 st before marker M1L, k1, sl m, work across: (2 sts increased) 58 [62, 64, 68, 72] sts.
Maintaining pattern, repeat Increase Row, every 6th row, 0 [1, 2, 3, 3] more times: 58 [64, 68, 74, 78] sts.
Work even until Front measures 8¾ [9¾, 11, 11½, 12] inches from cast on edge, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping
Rows 1 and 2: Bind off 2 [2, 2, 4, 4] sts at the beginning of the row, work across: 54 [60, 64, 66, 70] sts.
Rows 3 and 4:
Bind off 2 sts at the beginning of the row, work across: 50 [56, 60, 62, 66] sts.
Row 5: Ssk, work across to last 2 sts, k2tog: 48 [54, 58, 60, 64] sts.
Row 6:
Work across.
Repeat the last two rows 0 [0, 1, 1, 2] more times: 48 [54, 56, 58, 60] sts

Next Row (RS): Work across first 8 [9, 10, 10, 10] sts, bind off the next 32 [36, 36, 38, 40] sts using I-Cord Bind Off method, work across: 8 [9, 10, 10, 10] each side
Put left shoulder sts on holder.
Right Shoulder Working in Tweed pattern only, work even until armhole measures 4½ [5, 5½, 6, 6½] inches, ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): Bind off 4 [5, 5, 5, 5] sts kwise, work across.
Next Row: Work across.
Bind off all sts pwise.
Right Shoulder With WS facing, return sts to needle and work across.
Work even until the armhole measures 4½ [5, 5½, 6, 6½] inches, ending with a RS row.
Next Row:
Bind off 4 [5, 5, 5, 5] sts pwise, work across
Next Row: K across Bind off all sts pwise

Detail

FINISHING

Block before seaming. Using mattress stitch or crochet seaming method, sew side seams. Using kitchener stitch, sew shoulder seams.
Weave in all ends.
Optional: With CC and using size F crochet hook, join yarn with slip st at underarm; work Reverse single crochet evenly around armhole. Repeat for second side.
Unzip provisional cast on and transfer live sts to circular needle.
With RS facing, attach MC and bind off using I-cord bind off.
Block again, giving special attention to the tweed stitch pattern to size.

Schematic

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Designer Photo

Jean doesn't have a child of her own yet but loves to knit for friends with kids. She works full time as a lawyer to support her yarn and needles addiction, hence the name of her blog. She lives in California, with her husband and their dog.

 

 

Pattern © 2011 Jean Chung. Contact 

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