I always liked the easy comfortable fit that ponchos provide, but somehow this particular clothing piece never seemed right in regards to my always active child. Maya refuses to wear anything that interferes with her movement, thus the idea of cross between poncho and a sweater came to be. It is comfy and loose, yet it is not in the way for jumping, climbing, running, and hanging upside down on monkey bars.
Family Roots yarns have been a long time favorite of mine for their quality and fantastic colorways; and I knew from the start that this will be THE yarn for this project. The simple seamless construction will in fact showcase any hand dyed and variegated yarns beautifully - knit and watch the colors unfold. It is as if you are painting your own sweater, a sure delight for you as a knitter, and for your special little girls who can have a say in the colors they would like to see.
Child 2T [4T, 6, 8, 10]
Shown in size 4
Chest: 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] inches
Length: 15 [16½, 18½, 20½, 22½] inches
Family Roots Gaia Organic Merino Worsted [100% organic merino; 280 yards/256 meters per 4 ounce/100 gram skein];
Marylin (MC); 1 [2, 2, 2, 3] skeins
Family Roots Gaia Organic Merino Worsted [100% organic merino; 140 yards/128 meters per 2 ounce/50 gram skein];
Pink (CC); 1 [2, 2, 2, 2] skein(s)
US #6/4mm 16 inch circular needle
US #6/4mm 24 inch circular needle
US #7/4.5mm 16 inch circular needle
US #7/4.5mm 24 inch circular needle
US #6/4 mm double pointed needles
4 stitch markers (one marker in different color to mark beginning of the round)
2 lengths of waste yarn/stitch holders
20 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches in St st with larger size needle
Slipm = slip marker from left needle to the right.
The sweater is entirely seamless and is worked from top down in the round on circular needles. The neckband is made first, and then the rest of the sweater is knit downwards. Once the sweater’s body is complete, sleeves and sleeve cuffs are also worked in the round on circular needles. I-cord is made and threaded through the hem eyelets; decorative leaves are knitted onto the I-cord afterward; both require double pointed needles for knitting. Once the sweater is blocked, the sleeve cuffs are gathered with a darning needle and main color yarn. Neckband, sleeve cuffs, and hem are worked in 2x2 rib (k2, p2).
Knitting on double pointed needles, knitting in the round, increase, provisional cast on
With shorter length smaller size circular needle and CC, cast on 80 [88, 96, 104, 112] sts. Place beginning of the round marker, and join for knitting in the round; be careful not to twist the sts.
Rnds 1-8: * K2, p2; repeat from * around.
Rnd 1: Change to shorter length larger size circular needle and MC, knit in the round and place markers as follows:
k17 [19, 21, 23, 25], pm, k23 [25, 27, 29, 31], pm, k17 [19, 21, 23, 25], pm, k23 [25, 27, 29, 31].
Rnd 2 (Increase rnd): Kfb, * knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slipm, kfb; repeat from * 3 times more, knit to last st, kfb: 88 [96, 104, 112, 120] sts.
Rnds 3 and 4: Knit around.
Repeat Rnds 2-4, 18 [20, 22, 24, 27] more times changing to longer length larger size needles when sts become crowded. You should have the following number of sts between markers:
2T: 55/61/55/61 - 232 sts
4T: 61/67/61/67 - 256 sts
6: 67/73/67/73 - 280 sts
8: 73/79/73/79 - 304 sts
10: 81/87/81/87 - 336 sts
Next round (Separate for Sleeves and Body): Slip first 55 [61, 67, 73, 81] sts onto scrap yarn/stitch holder for sleeve, remove marker, kfb, knit to 1 st before the next marker, kfb, remove marker, slip next 55 [61, 67, 73, 81] sts onto scrap yarn/stitch holder for second sleeve, leave marker, kfb, knit to 1 st before the next marker, kfb, leave marker (this will be your beginning of the round marker): 126 [138, 150, 162, 178] sts.
Rnds 1 and 2: Knit around.
Rnd 3 (Decrease rnd): K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next marker, skp, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next stitch marker, skp, k1: 122 [134, 146, 158, 174] sts.
Repeat Rnds 1-3, 2 [2, 3, 4, 4] more times: 114 [126, 134, 142, 158] sts.
Remove second marker, keeping beginning of the round marker in place.
Knit in St st for 7 [9, 11, 13, 15] rounds.
Next round: Knit around decreasing 2 [6, 6, 6, 6] sts evenly spaced: 112[120, 128, 136, 152] sts.
Change to smaller size circular needles and CC, knit one round.
Work in 2x2 rib for 8 [10, 11, 12, 13] rnds.
Eyelet round: * K2, yo, p2tog; repeat from * around.
Work in 2x2 rib for 8 [10, 11, 12, 13] rnds more.
Bind off all sts in 2x2 rib pattern.
Transfer 55 [61, 67, 73, 81] sts from waste yarn/stitch holder onto shorter length larger size circular needles; join MC and pick up 3 sts at the underarm area, pm, pick up 2 sts at the underarm area, join for knitting in the round: 60 [66, 72, 78, 86] sts.
Rnd 1: Knit around.
Rnd 2 (Decrease rnd): K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before stitch marker, skp, k1: 58 [64, 70, 76, 84] sts.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 3 [2, 3, 4, 4] more times changing to dpns when necessary: 52[60, 64, 68, 76] sts.
Change to shorter length smaller size circular needle or dpns and CC, knit one round.
Work in 2x2 rib for 8 [10, 12, 12, 14] rounds.
Bind off all sts in 2x2 rib pattern.
Decorative I-Cord Belt
Using MC provisionally cast on 3 sts, then use smaller size dpns to knit a 38[40, 43, 46, 49] inch I-cord; do not bind off.
Attach CC and kfb in each stitch across I-cord: 6 sts.
Arrange first 3 sts on one dpn and last 3 sts on second dpn. Hold needles parallel with working yarn coming from back needle. Then knit the sts on the front needle as follows:
Rnd 1: K1, yo, k1, yo, k1; turn work with back needle towards you, repeat as for the front needle: 5 sts on each needle.
You will be knitting in the round, first on one needle, then on another.
Rnd 2: Knit sts on both needles.
Rnd 3: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2; turn work, as for the front needle: 7 sts on each needle.
Rnd 4: Knit sts on both needles.
Rnd 5: K3, yo, k1, yo, k3; turn work, as for the front needle: 9 sts on each needle.
Rnd 6: Knit sts on both needles.
Rnd 7: K4, yo, k1, yo, k4; turn work, as for the front needle: 11 sts on each needle.
Rnd 8: Knit sts on both needles.
Rnd 9: Skp, k7, k2tog; turn work, as for the front needle: 9 sts on each needle.
Rnd 10: Knit sts on both needles.
Rnd 11: Skp, k5, k2tog; turn work, as for the front needle: 7 sts on each needle.
Rnd 12: Knit sts on both needles.
Rnd 13: Skp, k3, k2tog; turn work, as for the front needle: 5 sts on each needle.
Rnd 14: Skp, k1, k2tog; turn work, as for the front needle: 3 sts on each needle.
Rnd 15: Slip 2 sts as if to knit together, knit 1 st, pass slipped sts over the knit st; turn work, as for the front needle.
Bind off remaining sts.
Thread I-cord through the hem eyelets.
For the Second Leaf, transfer 3 sts from provisional cast on onto dpns, attach CC and repeat as for the First Leaf.
Weave in any loose ends. Block your sweater.
With WS facing you, attach MC at the middle of the sleeve, where 2x2 ribbing for sleeves begins, and then thread the yarn through the darning needle. On the WS sew under the first purl bump, working toward neck edge, * skip 3 bumps, and then sew under one bump; repeat from * 5 [7, 7, 9, 9] times more. Turn, working 2-3 sts away from first line of stitching, work down to the top of the 2x2 rib in the same manner. Gently pull your yarn tight so that the threads going up and down are gathered evenly. Secure yarn at the start of 2x2 rib. Weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve.
Elena Nodel was born and raised in Russia, a place where knitting is a part of a lifestyle. She now lives and raises her family in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Elena is a trained microbiologist/immunologist, and has spent years doing scientific research. She has always been artistic and imaginative, drawing and painting pictures since childhood. When her daughter was born, she once again became passionate about knitting. Elena designs all her garments with natural fibers, and whenever possible uses circular needles to make her designs seamless, fast and easy to knit.
Pattern © 2011 Elena Nodel. Contact
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