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George's Vest

by Crystal Erb Junkins

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» model: J, G & L » photos: Crystal Junkins
Easy

My sons have always loved to wear vests (I think they like that their arms are free) and I have always loved to see my boys in vests (because even if they aren’t acting like gentlemen, they can still be dressed like one!) They look so handsome!

This version has a mock-cabling detail on the front, and is designed to look like a buttoned-up vest though the buttons are purely for decoration. Who has time to button up a toddler anyway? Over the head, and out the door!


 


Sizes

Small: 12-18 months [Medium: 24 mo -3T, Large: 4-6T]
Shown in sizes Johann (5), George (4), and Logan (22 months)

Finished Measurements

Chest: 18¼ [21¾, 25] inches
Length: 12 [14½, 17] inches

Materials

Dream in Color Smooshy® [100% merino wool superwash; 450 yards / 411 meters per 4 ounce / 114 gram hank];

#230 Deep Seaflower; 1 [1, 2] hanks

Madelinetosh Tosh Sock [100% merino wool superwash; 395 yards / 361 meters per 4 ounce / 114 gram hank];

Charcoal; 1[1, 2] hanks


Recommended needle sizes

US #4/3.5 mm and US #6/4 mm 40 inch or longer circular needle (for working in the round using Magic Loop) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions

Stitch markers
5-7 buttons (⅞ inch)
stitch holders
Crochet hook, size G (4 mm)

Gauge

With larger size needle, 24 sts and 35 rnds = 4 inches square in St st

Pattern Notes

Blue vests, sizes small and medium, Gray vest, size large. I prefer to always work in the round when I can, so I’ve worked the body in the round from the bottom hem up to the underarms using the magic loop technique. At the underarms, the work is divided to work the front and back sections. I just leave the stitches from the back section on the extra length of the circular needle while I work back and forth on the front section. 

When the front section divides at the V-neck for right and left sides, I again just hold the left side stitches on the circular needle while I’m working up the right side, and then when the right side is done, I join yarn to the held stitches for the left side and finish working. All that remains to seam at the end is the top of the shoulders.

Special Stitches Used
Mock Cable Rib: (worked over 5 sts and 4 rnds)
Rnds 1-3: * K3, p2; repeat from * around.
Rnd 4:  * Working in front of next 2 sts, knit 3rd stitch on left needle (make sure the first 2 sts don’t fall off), then knit the next 2 sts, p2; repeat from * around.

Mock Cable Center Band (Rnds) (worked over 17 sts and 4 rnds)
Rnds 1-3: P2, k3, p7, k3, p2.
Rnd 4: P2, working in front of next 2 sts, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle (make sure the first 2 sts don’t fall off), then knit the next 2 sts, p7, working in front of next 2 sts, knit 3rd stitch on the left, then knit the next 2 sts, p2.

Mock Cable Center Band (Flat) (worked over 17 sts and 4 rows – used after the split at the underarms when working back and forth across the front section)
Row 1: P2, k3, p7, k3, p2.
Row 2: K2, p3, k7, p3, k2.
Row 3: P2, working in front of next 2 sts, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle (make sure the first 2 sts don’t fall off), then knit each of the next 2 sts, p7, working in front of next 2 sts, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle (make sure the first 2 sts don’t fall off), then knit each of the next 2 sts, p2.
Row 4: K2, p3, k7, p3, k2.

Skills Required

Magic Loop for knitting in the round, mock cabling, grafting/kitchener stitch

Body

Using smaller size circular needle, cast on 110 [130, 150] sts. 
Join for working in the round using magic loop, being careful not to twist stitches.
Rnd 1: Place marker for beginning of round, and work Mock Cable Rib for 2 inches, ending with Rnd 4.
Change to larger size needle.
Set Up Rnd: K18 [23, 28], pm, work Rnd 1 of Mock Cable Center Band (Rnds), pm, k75 [90, 105].
Continue to work Rnds 1-4 of Mock Cable Center Band (Rnds) between markers while working remaining sts in St st until Body measures 7½ [9, 10¾] inches from cast on edge, ending with Rnd 2 of Mock Cable Center Band.

Next Rnd (Divide for Front and Back): K18 [23, 28], [p2, k3, p7, k3, p2], k17 [22, 27], bind off next 4 sts, k50 [60, 70] (you will have 51 [61, 71] sts in the section following the bound off sts), bind off next 4 sts: 102 [122, 142] sts, 51 [61, 71] sts for front and for back.
Note: When working the last bind off on each armhole, you will need to use one st from the opposite side of the Body. The bound off sts divide the work between front and back sections of the vest.

Hold 51 [61, 71] Back sts on the extra length of the circular needle and completely ignore them while working the front sts back and forth.

Front

Row 1: Knit to center band marker, work Row 3 of Mock Cable Center Band (Flat), knit across: 51 [61, 71] sts.
Turn work.
Row 2: Purl to marker, work Row 4 of Mock Cable Center Band (Flat), purl across. 
Row 3 (Decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to marker, work Row 1 of Mock Cable Center Band (Flat), knit across to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1: 49 [59, 69] sts.
Row 4: Purl to marker, work Row 4 of Mock Cable Center Band (Flat), purl across.
Repeat Rows 1-4, decreasing one st at each armhole edge, every 4th row, 2 [3, 3] more times: 45 [53, 63] sts.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 once more.

DetailRight Front
For Small and Medium sizes only
Row 3 (set up row): *K1, ssk, k8 [12], k2tog, k1, sm, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p3*, **p2tog, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, k2, p2, sm, k1, ssk, k8 [12], k2tog, k1**.
Note: Sts between the single stars (*) will be held on the circular as the left front section and will be worked later. Sts between the double stars (**) represent the right front section and will now be worked back and forth until complete.
Row 4: P12 [16], sm, k2, p3, k3: 20 [24] sts.
Row 5: P3, k3, p2, sm, knit across.
Row 6: Purl to marker, k2, p3, k3.
Row 7: P3, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across: 19 [23] sts.
Row 8: Purl to marker, k2, p3, k3.
Row 9 (Decrease row): P3, k3, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across: 18 [22] sts.
Row 10: Purl to marker, k2, p3, k3.
Row 11 (Decrease row): P3, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across: 17 [21] sts.
Row 12: Purl to marker, k2, p3, k3.
Repeat Rows 9-12, 4 [5] more times: 9 [11] sts.
Work in pattern for 0 [4] rows.
Put remaining 9 [11] sts on a holder.  Break yarn.

Left Front
For Small and Medium sizes only
Join yarn to WS.
Row 4: K3, p3, k2, purl across: 20[24] sts.
Row 5: Knit to marker, p2, k3, p3.
Row 6: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 7: Knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p3: 19 [23] sts.
Row 8: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 9 (Decrease row): Knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, k3, p3: 18 [22] sts.
Row 10: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 11 (Decrease row): Knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p3: 17 [21] sts.
Row 12: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Repeat Rows 9-12, 4 [5] more times: 9 [11] sts remain).
Work in pattern for 0 [4] rows.
Put remaining 9 [11] sts. on a holder.  Break yarn.

Front

DetailFor Large size Only
Row 3: K1, ssk, k17, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p7, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p2, sm, k1, ssk, k17, k2tog, k1: 59 sts.
Row 4: P21, sm, k2, p3, k7, p3, k2, sm, p21.
Row 5 (set up row): *K18, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, k3, p3*, **p2tog, p2, k3, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across**.
Note: Sts between the single stars (*) will be held on the circular as the left front section and will be worked later. Sts between the double stars (**) represent the right front section and will now be worked back and forth until complete.

Right Front
For Large size Only
Row 6: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3: 28 sts.
Row 7: P3, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1: 26 sts.
Row 8: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3.
Row 9: P3, k3, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across: 25 sts.
Row 10: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3.
Row 11: P3, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1: 23 sts.
Row 12: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3.
Row 13: P3, k3, p2, sm, knit across.
Row 14: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3.
Row 15: P3, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p2, sm, k1, ssk, knit across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1: 21 sts.
Row 16: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3.
Row 17: P3, k3, p2, sm, knit across.
Row 18: Purl to marker, sm, k2, p3, k3.
Repeat Rows 15-18, 5 more times: 11 sts.
Work in pattern for 4 rows.
Put remaining 11 sts on a holder.  Break yarn.

Left Front
Join yarn to WS.
Row 6: K3, p3, k2, sm, k20: 28 sts.
Row 7: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p3: 26 sts.
Row 8: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 9: Knit to 3 sts before marker, K2tog, K1, sm, P2, K3, P2. (25 sts total)
Row 10: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 11: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p3: 23 sts.
Row 12: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 13: Knit to marker, sm, p2, k3, p3.
Row 14: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 15: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, p2, knit 3rd stitch on the left needle, then knit next 2 sts, p3: 21 sts.
Row 16: K3, p3, k2, purl across.
Row 17: Knit to marker, p2, k3, p3.
Row 18: K3, p3, k2, sm, purl across.
Repeat Rows 15-18, 5 more times: 11 sts.
Work in pattern for 4 rows.
Put remaining 11 sts on a holder.  Break yarn.

Back (all sizes)

Join new yarn to WS of work.
Row 1 (WS): Purl across: 51 [61, 71] sts.
Row 2: Knit across.
Row 3: Purl across.
Row 4: K1, ssk, knit across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1: 49 [59, 69] sts.
Continue in St st, decreasing every 4th row, 5 [9, 11] more times: 39 [41, 47] sts.

Work 11 [7, 1] row(s) even, ending with WS row.

Next Row: K11 [13, 15], bind off next 17 [15, 17] sts, knit across.

Left Back
Row 1: Purl across: 11 [13, 15] sts.
Row 2: K1, ssk, knit across: 10 [12, 14] sts.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 1 [1, 3] time(s): 9 [11, 11] sts.
Put remaining 9 [11, 11] sts on a holder.

Right Back
Join yarn to WS at neck edge.
Row 1: Purl across: 11 [13, 15] sts.
Row 2: Knit across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1: 10 [12, 14] sts.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 1 [1, 3] time(s): 9 [11, 11] sts.
Put remaining 9 [11, 11] sts on a holder.

FINISHING

Graft shoulder stitches together using kitchener stitch.

Sleeve Edging
Using smaller size circular needle, pick up 5 sts across every 7 rows, making sure to pick up a multiple of 5 sts.
Work Mock Cable ribbing for ¾-1½ inches as desired. 
Bind off loosely in rib pattern.
Repeat for second sleeve.

With RS facing and starting at back right shoulder, join yarn and single crochet evenly around neck edge; join with slip st to first sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, and block to measurements.
Sew buttons evenly down center panel. 

I made the embroidered buttons on the smallest vest shown here from a pair of my son’s outgrown and ripped jeans. If you’ve never made buttons before, or if you have a specific fabric or color in mind, you should definitely consider buying a button cover kit (such as Dritz), as it’s fast, cheap, and easy to make a set of unique buttons yourself!

Schematic

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Designer Photo

Crystal used to be a selfish knitter, but lately she’s been enjoying making things for her sons, mostly because she loves to see them wearing something she made herself. She also enjoys playing the piano, making chocolate chip cookies, falling asleep during movies and killing houseplants. She’d love for you to visit her in her space!

 

 

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