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Wasabi

by Amber Bertram

Photo
» model: Kahli » photos: Amber Bertram
Intermediate

I have a favourite cotton cardigan that I bought several years ago which I wear almost constantly in the build up to summer (it’s starting to get holes!) It’s casual yet dressed up with a little lace and ribbing detail and is the perfect layer to keep my shoulders warm on those cooler spring evenings.

This is the smaller girls’ version of that cardigan, designed to be a little more modern with a short, cropped length and dressed up with button detailing on the sleeve cuffs. The pattern also includes options for either long or short sleeves. It is knit in a silk/merino blend, which has a beautiful drape.

 


 


Sizes

2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]
Shown in size 8

Finished Measurements

Chest circumference: 21¾[23, 24, 25, 26, 26¾, 27¾, 28¼, 29] inches
Body Length from underarm: 6¼[6½, 6¾, 7, 7¼, 8, 9, 9¼, 9¾] inches

Materials

Cascade Heritage Silk[85% Merino Superwash Wool 15% Mulberry Silk; 437 yards / 400 meters per 3.5 ounce /100 gram hank];

Wasabi (hand dyed by Tangled Yarns Australia); 2 hanks

Recommended needle sizes

US #2½ / 3 cm 24 or 32 inch circular needle or size needed to obtain gauge
US #2 US / 2.75 cm 24 or 32 inch circular needle

Notions

Crochet hook and waste yarn for provisional cast on
stitch markers
scrap yarn
17 mm buttons - 4-6
14 mm buttons - 6-12
Tapestry needle

Gauge

28 sts and 38 rows = 4 inches in Stockinette st with larger size needles. Gauge is critical for this design.

Pattern Notes

Although this cardigan is knit in a simple top-down raglan style, the construction starts in an unusual manner. The lace yoke/border is started with a provisional cast on and worked in both directions across the back neck. Short rows are used to provide shaping. Stitches are then picked up along the border edge and the body is worked down from there. It's not really as complicated as it sounds! Just follow the instructions step-by-step and you'll see it all come together.

Skills Required

Picking up stitches; provisional cast on; short rows

 

Yoke

With larger needles, cast on 23 sts using provisional cast-on method.
Foundation Row (WS): P2, k1, (p1, k1) 3 times, purl to end.

Right Side Border Pattern
Row 1 (RS): K2, *yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1; repeat from * once more, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1.
Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to end.
Row 3: *K3, yo, s2kp, yo; repeat from * once more, k2, p1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1.
Row 4: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1-4, 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7] times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 once more.

Short Row Shaping
Short Row 1: *K3, yo, s2kp, yo; repeat from * once more, k1, w&t.
Short Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: purl to end.
Short Row 3: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1, w&t.
Short Row 5: K3, yo, s2kp, yo, k1, w&t.
Short Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, sl 1, pick up wrap, sl st back to left needle, k2tog (wrap and st), yo, sl 1, pick up wrap, sl st back to left needle, k3tog (wrap and 2 sts), k1, ssk, yo, sl 1, pick up wrap, sl st back to left needle, k2tog (wrap and st), p1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2.
Repeat these 8 Short Rows 4 times more.

Starting with Row 3, work Right Side Border Pattern for 38[38, 34, 36, 36, 30, 30, 30, 30] rows from Short Row Shaping (last row worked should be a WS row).
Note: Counting along the rib edge from the provisional cast on there should be a total of 75[75, 75, 77, 77, 75, 75, 75, 75] rows worked.

Break off yarn. Remove waste yarn from provisional cast on, placing ‘live’ sts on larger size needle with WS facing.

Left Side
Foundation Row (WS): P14, k1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2.

Left Side Border Pattern
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, *k1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo; repeat from * once more, k2.
Row 2: P14, k1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2.
Row 3: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, k2, *yo, s2kp, yo, k3; repeat from * once more.
Row 4: P14, k1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2.
Repeat Rows 1-4, 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7] times, then repeat Row 1 once more.

Short Row Shaping
Short Row 1: P13, w&t.
Short Row 2: K1, *yo, s2kp, yo, k3; repeat from * once more.
Short Row 3: P8, w&t.
Short Row 4: K1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k2.
Short Row 5: P7, w&t.
Short Row 6: K1, yo, s2kp, yo, k3.
Short Row 7: P7, *pick up wrap, p2tog (wrap and st); repeat from * once more, p4, pick up wrap, p2tog (wrap and st), (k1, p1) 4 times, p1.
Short Row 8: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, *k1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo; repeat from * once more, k2.
Repeat these 8 Short Rows 4 times more.

Starting with Row 2, work Left Side Border Pattern for 39[39, 35, 37, 37, 31, 31, 31, 31] rows from Short Row Shaping (last row worked should be a WS row).
Note: Both sides should be the same length, ending on the same pattern row.

Detail

Body

Note: When picking up sts in the next row, pick up 2 sts over every 3 rows.  Stitches are picked up along the lace side edge of the border, one stitch in from the edge.
Foundation Row: Work next row of Left Side Border Pattern to last 2 sts, ssk, pm, pick up 2 sts, pm, pick up 36[34, 34, 34, 34, 32, 32, 32, 30] sts, pm, pick up 29[30, 31, 32, 32, 33, 33, 33, 34] sts to provisional cast on (center back), pick up 29[30, 31, 32, 32, 33, 33, 33, 34] sts, pm, pick up 36[34, 34, 34, 34, 32, 32, 32, 30] sts, pm, pick up 2 sts, pm, k2tog (from Right Side border), work to end of next row of Right Side Border Pattern (omitting first 2 sts): 178[176, 178, 180, 180, 178, 178, 178, 176] sts.
Next Row (and every alt row): Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to last 9 sts, (k1, p1) 4 times, p1.
Note: Work the Right and Left Side Border Patterns as set previously, omitting the one stitch decreased before the marker in the foundation row.
Row 1: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, *knit to st before marker, yo, k1, pm, k1, yo; repeat from * 3 times more, knit to marker, pm, work Right Side Border to end: 186[184, 186, 188, 188, 186, 186, 186, 184] sts.
Row 3: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, m1r, *knit to st before marker, yo, k1, pm, k1, yo; repeat from * 3 times more, knit to marker, m1, pm, work Right Side Border to end: 196[194, 196, 198, 198, 196, 196, 196, 194] sts.

These 4 rows form the pattern of increases – eight increases for raglan shaping every second row and two increases at neckline every fourth row. If preferred, the ‘yo, k1, pm, k1, yo’ can be replaced with ‘m1, k1, pm, k1, m1r’.

Repeat these 4 rows until there are 78[82, 86, 90, 92, 96, 98, 100, 104] sts across back (between 3rd and 4th markers) ending with Row 4[2, 4, 2. 4, 2, 4 ,2, 4]: 268[274, 286, 296, 306, 312, 322, 330, 338] sts.

Sizes 2[4, 6, 8, 10] Only
Next Row: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, knit to marker, remove marker, slip next 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66] sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, knit to next marker, remove marker, slip next 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66] sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, knit to marker, pm, work Right Side Border to end: 156[170, 182, 194, 206] sts.
Row 1 (and every alt row): Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to last 9 sts, (k1, p1) 4 times, p1.
Row 2: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, m1r, knit to marker, m1, pm, work Right Side Border to end.
Row 4: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, knit to marker, pm, work Right Side Border to end.

Repeat Rows 1-4, 5[6, 6, 6, 6] times, then repeat Row 1 once more: 166[182, 194, 206, 218] sts.

Sizes 3[5, 7, 9] Only
Next Row: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, m1r, knit to marker, remove marker, slip next 56[60, 62, 66] sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, knit to next marker, remove marker, slip next 56[60, 62, 66] sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, knit to marker, m1, pm, work Right Side Border to end: 164[178, 190, 200] sts.
Row 1 (and every alt row): Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to last 9 sts, (k1, p1) 4 times, p1.
Row 2: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, knit to marker, pm, work Right Side Border to end.
Row 4: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, m1r, knit to marker, m1, pm, work Right Side Border to end: 166[180, 192, 202] sts.

Repeat Rows 1-4, 4[5, 5, 4] times, then repeat Rows 1-3 once more: 174[190, 202, 210] sts.

Detail

All Sizes
Buttonhole Row: Sl 1, k1, p1, with yarn held to front, sl 1, bring yarn to back, *sl 1, pass first slipped st over second; repeat from * 4 times more, place last st back on left needle, turn. Cast on 6 sts as follows: **Insert right needle as if to purl between the first and second sts on left needle, draw up a loop, and place it on the left needle, insert right needle as if to knit between the first and second sts on left needle, draw up a loop, and place it on the left needle; repeat from ** 2 times more, turn. Bring yarn to back, slip first st of left needle onto right needle and pass last cast on st over it, place st back on left needle and p, k1, continue with rest of Left Side Border to marker, pm, knit to marker, pm, work Right Side Border to end.
Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to last 9 sts, (k1, p1) 4 times, p1.
Row 2: Work Left Side Border to marker, pm, knit to marker, pm, work Right Side Border to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 5[5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7] times more, then repeat Row 1 once more.  Work buttonhole row again.
Continue in this manner, working a buttonhole row every 12[12, 12, 12, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16] rows until piece measures 4¼[4½, 4¾, 4½, 4¾, 5½, 6, 6¼, 6¾] inches from underarm ending with a WS row. Repeat Row 1 once more, decreasing 1st across back: 165[173, 182, 189, 193, 201, 205, 209, 217] sts.

Hem

Change to smaller needles.
Note: Try to keep buttonhole placement correct (i.e. every 12[12, 12, 12, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16] rows), though the last buttonhole may need to be placed slightly less.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, (k1, p1) across to last st, k1.
Row 2: Sl1, (p1, k1) across to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for approx 2[2, 2, 2½, 2½, 2½, 3, 3, 3] inches, ending 3 rows after a buttonhole row.
Bind off loosely in rib.

Option 1: Short Sleeves
Place the 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66] sts from waste yarn onto larger size needle. Pick up 2 sts at underarm, placing marker between them to indicate start of round: 58[58, 60, 62, 64, 64, 66, 68, 68] sts.
Rnd 1: Knit to end.
Repeat Rnd 1, 6[7, 8, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9] times.
Dec Rnd: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk: 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66] sts.
Knit 6[7, 8, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9] rnds.

Right Sleeve Cuff
Rnd 1: K2tog, k23[23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28], change to smaller needles, pm, kfb 6 times, p1, (k1, p1) to second marker, removing start of round marker as it is passed, sl 1, sl next st to safety pin and hold at back of work, place first st back, k2tog, *sl next st to safety pin and hold at back of work, k1; repeat from * 3 times more, turn.
Begin working in rows.
Put sts from safety pin onto needle to be worked at the end of next row: 60[60, 62, 64, 66, 66, 68, 70, 70] sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, p4, k1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 6 sts, ssp, purl to end: 59[59, 61, 63, 65, 65, 67, 69, 69] sts.
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, p1, *k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 3: Sl 1, p4, k1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for approx 1½ inches.
Bind off in pattern.

Left Sleeve Cuff
Rnd 1: K2tog, k23[23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28], change to smaller needles, pm, kfb 6 times, p1, (k1, p1) to second marker, removing start of round marker as it is passed.
Rnd 2: *Sl next st to safety pin and hold at front of work, k1; repeat from * 3 times more, sl next st to safety pin and hold at front of work, sl 1, sl next st to safety pin and hold at front of work, place first st back on left needle, ssk, p1, **k1, p1; repeat from ** to marker, working sts from safety pin, k2tog, k4, turn: 59[59, 61, 63, 65, 65, 67, 69, 69] sts.
Remove marker when it is passed.
Row 1: Sl 1, p4, k1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, p1, *k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k5.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for approx 1½ inches.
Bind off in pattern.

Option 2: Long Sleeves
Place the 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66] sts from waste yarn onto larger size needle. Pick up 2 sts at underarm, placing marker between them to indicate start of round: 58[58, 60, 62, 64, 64, 66, 68, 68] sts.
Rnd 1: Knit to end.
Repeat Rnd 1, 6[7, 8, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9] times.
Dec Rnd: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk: 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66] sts.
Repeat Dec Round every 7[8, 9, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 10] rnds until 42[42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50] sts remain.
Knit without decreasing until sleeve measures 7[7¾, 8½, 8½, 9¼, 10, 10, 10¾, 11¼] inches from underarm.

Right Sleeve Cuff
Rnd 1: K2tog, k16[16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20], change to smaller needles, pm, kfb 6 times, p1, (k1, p1) to second marker, removing start of round marker as it is passed, sl 1, sl next st to safety pin and hold at back of work, place first st back, k2tog, *sl next st to safety pin and hold at back of work, k1; repeat from * 3 times more, turn.
Begin working in rows.
Put sts from safety pin onto needle to be worked at the end of next row: 46[46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54] sts.
Remove marker when it is passed.
Row 1: Sl 1, p4, k1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 6sts, ssp, purl to end: 45[45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53] sts.
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, p1, *k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 3: Sl 1, p4, k1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for approx 2[2, 2, 2½, 2½, 2½, 3, 3, 3] inches.
Bind off in pattern.

Left Sleeve Cuff
Rnd 1: K2tog, k23[23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28], change to smaller needles, pm, kfb 6 times, p1, (k1, p1) to second marker, removing start of round marker as it is passed.
Rnd 2: *Sl next st to safety pin and hold at front of work, k1; repeat from * 3 times more, sl next st to safety pin and hold at front of work, sl 1, sl next st to safety pin and hold at front of work, place first st back on left needle, ssk, p1, **k1, p1; repeat from ** to marker, working sts from safety pin, k2tog, k4, turn: 59[59, 61, 63, 65, 65, 67, 69, 69] sts.
Remove marker when it is passed.
Row 1: Sl 1, p4, k1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, p1, *k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k5.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for approx 2[2, 2, 2½, 2½, 2½, 3, 3, 3] inches.
Bind off in pattern.

Detail

FINISHING

Weave in loose ends. Sew on larger buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Overlap button bands on cuffs and position 3-5 smaller buttons evenly spaced along it. Sew buttons through both layers. Block to finished measurements, gently opening the lace section of the border but DO NOT stretch the rib on the borders, hem or cuffs.

Detail

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Designer Photo

Amber lives in the beautiful country of New Zealand (the perfect country for knitters as there are four times more sheep than people!) where she juggles her day job, managing the office and accounts of the family business with doing homework, cooking dinners and dealing with piles of washing for her three busy girls. She can be found on Ravelry as usthree and on the interweb where she’s constantly trying to satisfy the question of What to Make Next?

Pattern © 2012 Amber Bertram. Contact 

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