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Spring picnic

by Helen Rose

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» model: VS » photos: Helen Rose
Intermediate

Making a cardigan that my sparkley-loving, heart-idolizing, energetic little girl will love is no small task. As eclectic as her taste may be, it is very specific. When I saw the "Three Flowers" Pattern in Barbara Walker's "A Second Treasurey of Knitting Patterns" I immediatedly pictured a springtime scene, one that would be whimsical enough for my fun loving daughter. When she saw the swatch for "Spring Picnic", she fell in love - and so did I!


 


Sizes

3 months[6 months, 12 months, 18 months, 2, 4, 6]
Shown in size 2

Finished Measurements

Chest: 18[19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 27] inches
Length: 9¾[11, 11¾, 12½, 13¼, 15¼, 17] inches

Materials

Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima[100% Pima Cotton; 220 yards/201 meters per 3.5 ounce/100 gram skein];

#3743 Yellow Rose (MC); 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3] hanks
#3738 Spearmint (CC1); 1 hank
#3773 Baby Blue (CC2); 1 hank
#3776 Pink Roses (CC3); 1 hank
#3728 White (CC4); 1 hank

Recommended needle sizes

US #6/ 4 mm 40 inch or longer circular needle or set of 5 dpns or size needed to obtain gauge
US #4 / 3.5 mm or #5 /3. 75 spare circular or dpn for hem

Notions

Stitch markers
Crochet hook
Tapestry needle
½ inch buttons: 5-8

Gauge

20 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches with largest needles in Stockinette st.
Gauge is critical for this design.

Pattern Notes

A little harder than average, but still doable, "Spring Picnic" is worked bottom up, with the only finishing being the underarms, weaved together with Kitchener st and the seed st button bands, picked up and worked. The hemmed bottom and arms are clean looking, and the light weight and 3/4 sleeves make it perfect for spring. The yoke is worked in 5 different colors, but one at a time so it is easily done back and forth - although a little fiddly.

Crochet hook is optional to use for cloud stitch.

M1: make one using the backward loop method.

Grafting underarms (Kitchener Stitch): Put live underarm sts on one needle (held in the front) and live body sts on another needle (held in the back). Position so that the wrong sides of the fabric are together. Thread the yarn tail from the sleeve through a blunt tapestry needle. *Pull the yarn through the first st on the front needle as if to knit and take the st off, pull the yarn through second st on the front needle as if to purl and leave the st on. Pull the yarn through the first st on the back needle as if to purl and take the st off, pull the yarn through the second st on the back needle as if to knit and leave the st on; repeat from *, adjusting the tension of the seam as you go. If there are holes at the beginning and end of the seam, pull the holes together and sew two purl sts together at the WS of the garment.

Cloud Stitch: It is essential to work this st with the needle tips close together, as good tension is hard to achieve otherwise. I recommend making a swatch. Drop the first st off the left needle and let it drop 4 (or 3 for the smaller sizes) rows (until you reach a live blue stitch), insert the right hand needle from front to back into the blue live st, and under and behind the horizontal strands, knit into the live stitch. This may be worked with a crochet hook if you prefer.

Cloud Detail Photos

Cloud Detail Photos

Cloud Detail Photos

Cloud Detail Photos

Slip as if to purl unless otherwise specified.

Make Bobble (MB): P3, turn and k3, turn and sl1(as if to knit)-k2tog-psso.

Three Flower stitch is from Barbara Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Skills Required

Bobbles, knit/purl in back of stitch, drop a stitch and then knit it later, hem, provisional cast on, drop a stitch and knit through it, kitchener st or 3-needle bind off

 

Body

Using MC, cast on 90[95, 100, 105, 114, 126, 134] sts with a provisional cast on, keeping live sts on a piece of waste yarn.  See this tutorial for a guide to this technique.
Row 1(WS): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4 (turning row): Purl.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl.
Remove waste yarn from cast on, placing live sts on smaller needle. Fold work in half, WS facing each other, at the turning row. Hold the needles containing the two sets of sts together in your left hand. Now knit the working sts together with the cast on sts across the whole row. Continue working back and forth in stockinette until piece measures 6[7, 7½, 8, 8½, 9½, 10½] inches from the turning row, ending with a WS row. Leave sts on your needle, do not cut yarn.

Detail

Sleeve (Make 2)
Cast on 30[32, 32, 34, 34, 35, 35] sts in MC (for knitting in the round) with a provisional cast on, keeping live sts on a piece of waste yarn. Space sts evenly among 3 DPNs or have all sts on a long circular needle for magic loop method. Join to work in round (without twisting sts) and mark beginning of round.
Rnds 1-3: Knit.
Rnd 4 (turning round): Purl.
Rnds 5-7: Knit.
Remove waste yarn from cast on, placing live sts on smaller needle. Fold work in half, WS facing each other, at the turning row. Hold the needles containing the two sets of sts together in your left hand. Now knit the working sts together with the cast on sts around the whole round. Continue working in stockinette in MC and increase by 2 sts every fifth round as follows:
Increase Rnd: K1, M1 (backward loop), knit to last 2 sts, M1, k2; repeat until there are 34 (38, 38, 40, 40, 43, 45) sts.
Continue working St st until Sleeve measures 4½[5, 5½, 6, 6½, 7¾, 8⅝] inches from turning rnd. Knit first 3 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts of next round. Leave last 7[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts worked on one holder and rest of sts on needle or other holder. Leave a long tail for grafting underarm together later.

Yoke
Row 1: In CC1 (green), k18[19, 20, 21, 23, 26, 27] sts from right front of body, k27[30, 30, 32, 31, 33, 34] sts from larger holder on sleeve, put next 7[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts from body to holder, knit next 40[41, 44, 47, 51, 55, 59] sts from body, k27[30, 30, 32, 31, 33, 34] sts from larger holder on sleeve, put next 7[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts from body on holder, knit to end: 130[139, 144, 153, 159, 173, 181] sts.
Row 2 (WS): Purl in CC1, increasing by 3[increasing by 4, decreasing by 1, no increase or decrease, increasing by 4, no increase or decrease, increasing by 2] evenly around, using either m1 or p2tog as needed: 133[143, 143, 153, 163, 173, 183] sts.
Row 3: With CC1, knit.
Row 4: With CC1, k5, k3 wrapping yarn 3 times for each st, *k7, k3 wrapping yarn 3 times for each st; repeat from * across to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 5: With CC2, k1, *sl 1 wyib, k3, sl 3 wyib dropping extra wraps, k3; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, sl 1, k1.
Row 6: With CC2, p1, *sl 1 wyif, p3, sl 3 wyif, p3; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, end sl 1, p1.
Row 7: With CC2, k5, *sl 3 wyib, k7; repeat from * across to last 8 sts, slip 3 wyib, k5.
Row 8: With CC2, p5, *sl 3 wyif, p7; repeat from * across to last 8 sts, slip 3 wyib, p5.
Row 9: With CC2, k3, *sl 2 wyib, drop next st (first CC1) off needle to front of work, sl the same 2 sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it; k3, drop next st (3rd CC1) off needle to front of work, k2, pick up dropped st and knit it; k3, repeat from * across.
Row 10: With CC3, p1, sl 2 wyif, *[(p1, k1, p1) in next st, sl 2 wyif] twice, (p1, k1, p1) in next st, sl 3 wyif; repeat from *, end[(p1, k1, p1) in next st, sl 2 wyif] 3 times, p1.
Row 11: With CC3, k1, sl 2 wyib, *MB in next 3 sts, (sl 2 wyib, MB) twice, sl 3 wyib; repeat from *, end (MB, sl 2 wyib) 3 times, k1.
Row 12: With CC2, purl, purling into the back of each bobble st.
Row 13: With CC2, knit.
Row 14: With CC2, purl.

With CC2, continue in St st until Yoke measures 1¾[1¾, 2, 2, 2⅛, 2¾, 3] inches from underarm, ending on a WS row.

In CC2, work decrease Row 1 (RS) as follows: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * across to last 1[2, 2, 0, 1, 2, 0] st(s), k1[2, 2, 0, 1, 2, 0]: 89[96, 96, 102, 109, 116, 122] sts.
In CC2, continue in St st until Yoke measures 2¼[2½, 2⅝, 2¾, 3, 3¾, 4¼] inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.

In CC2, work decrease Row 2 (RS) as follows: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * across to last 2[0, 0, 0, 1, 2, 2] sts, k2[0, 0, 0, 1, 2, 2]: 60[64, 64, 68, 73, 78, 82] sts.

In CC2, work 1 row of purl, decreasing by 1[no increase or decrease, no increase or decrease, increasing by 1, decreasing by 3, increasing by 3, no increase or decrease] evenly around, using either m1 or p2tog as needed: 59[64, 64, 69, 70, 81, 82] sts.

Make Clouds
For 6 months and 12 months sizes Only
Row 1: In CC4, k1, *k2, sl 1 (as if to purl), k2, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k2; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: In CC4, purl.
Row 3: In CC4, knit.
Row 4: In CC4, purl.
Row 5: In CC2, k1, *(cloud st from CC2 4 rows below) twice, k2, sl 2, k1, (cloud st from CC2 below) twice, k1, sl 1, k1; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, (cloud st from CC2 below) twice, k1.
Row 6: In CC2 purl.

For 0-3 months, 2T, and 4 year sizes Only
Row 1: In CC4, k1, *k2, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k2; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: In CC4, purl.
Row 3: In CC4, knit.
Row 4: In CC4, purl.
Row 5: In CC2, k1, *(cloud st from CC2 4 rows below) twice, k1, sl 2, k1, (cloud st from CC2 below) twice, k1, sl 1, k1; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, (cloud st from CC2 below) twice, k1.
Row 6: In CC2 purl.

For 18 months and 6 yr sizes Only
Row 1: In CC4, k1, *k2, sl 1 (as if to purl), k1, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k4; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: In CC4, purl.
Row 3: In CC4, knit.
Row 4: In CC4, purl.
Row 5: In CC2, k1, *(cloud st from CC2 4 rows below) twice, k1, sl 2, k1, (cloud st from CC2 below) twice, k3, sl 1, k1; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, (cloud st from CC2 below) twice, k1.
Row 6: In CC2 purl.

59[64, 64, 69, 70, 81, 82] sts

All Sizes
Continue in CC2 in St st until Yoke measures 3¼[3½, 3¾, 4, 4¼, 5½, 6] inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.
Work decrease Row 3 (RS) as follows: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2[1, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1] st(s): 40[43, 43, 46, 47, 54, 55] sts.
Change to MC and knit 3 rows (garter st).
Bind off on RS in knit.

Button Band
Along right front edge, pick up (from RS to WS) 2 sts for every 3 rows. Count how many sts you have picked up. Work seed st for 5 rows.
Bind off in purl.
Repeat along left front edge, picking up equal number of sts. Do seed stitch for 2 rows. The 3rd row is the buttonhole row: Work 3 sts in seed st, yo, k2tog or p2tog (depending on what will be after - if a p is due after the decrease, k2tog and vice versa). *Work 7 sts in seed st, yo, k2tog or p2tog, rpt from *, making buttonholes about every 7 sts. Make more or fewer buttonholes, depending on your taste, as long as they are evenly spaced.

Detail

FINISHING

Kitchener st the underarms. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes. Weave in ends. Block to schematic measurements.

 

Detail

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Designer Photo

Helen Rose is a pediatrician, wife, and mother of four who lives in New Jersey. For the past nine years, she has been knitting garments for her children. She expanded her focus to include knitted hats a few years ago and her creations have surged in popularity during holidays with her extended family. Helen's NEED line of knitwear focuses on what Helen knows best; children's apparel, baby garments, and hats. Her patterns are available on Ravelry.

Pattern © 2012 Helen Rose. Contact 

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